As we are dead set on bringing back everything from the old school to the vintage, we see all sorts of styles our fathers and grandfathers rocked — from the power suits of the 1980s to the pleated and looser silhouettes. One thing we are also seeing is an embrace of the more classic looks that men have always worn. Those items in the closet that never go out of style.
One of my favorites, making a comeback, is the French cuff shirt. But what is it about the French cuff shirt, and how can we wear it today? For that, I reached out to my friends over at Charles Tyrwhitt, the king of the dress shirt, to get some insight on these men’s classics. Their head of design, Spencer Riley, was kind enough to share some insight.
Many men have rediscovered the enjoyment and sense of purpose when putting on a suit- same thing for a French cuff- putting on the cufflink is more a sense of ceremony. – Spencer Riley, Charles Tyrwhitt’s Head of Design
Wear it formally or professionally
The most common place you will see a French cuff shirt is when you wear it under a tuxedo. They are definitely the most formal cuff. The folded-back design allows a thicker and more intentional look. Pairing it with the right cufflink is the perfect way to level up the look without trying too hard. However, it is also perfect for the boardroom. Those high-powered titans like Gordon Gecko and Jordan Belfort, Don Draper and Harvey Specter, all wore French cuff shirts. They were a statement.
“It is more purposeful,” Riley says. “For a while, we have been seeing high versatility in Smart shirting – wear it with a suit, wear it with Chinos. Now with a return to in-office working weeks, the Smart shirt has far more intention; it’s still versatile, but items like the French cuff are far more at home under a suit.”
But is it old-fashioned?
Now the question: Is it too old-fashioned? While we are hip deep in the resurgence of many vintage looks, there is such a thing as too old-fashioned. The idea is to wear it with a new and reinvigorated feel. Is that what this is? Is it a resurgence of something we have collectively missed? Like the pleated pants? Or is it taking it too far with the old-school styles? We tend to think this look never went away in the first place. While you may see Jay Gatsby and Don Draper rocking them, there is a reason they can be found from the early 1900s to the first two decades of the 2000s.
“It’s certainly more classic,” Riley explains. “But as younger men work in dress code offices for the first time post-COVID, it is a new discovery for them, making it interesting and less associated with ‘old-fashioned’, more with refinement.”
Tips for the French cuff
Just like any great style, there are ways to wear it correctly and ways to miss the mark. This is the kind of shirt that will make you look like James Bond when you nail it, and look like you’re headed to your high school prom when you fumble it. Therefore, Riley and I both have some tips for you to make sure you lean toward the former instead of the latter.
- First things first: Get the right collar for your face. Just like any dress shirt, the right collar for your face can completely change how your dress shirt comes across. If you are leveling up, level up completely.
- Second, treat the philosophy of the cuff links the same as the tie: If you are going to go loud and expressive, make them the talking point. Don’t pair crazy cuff links with over-the-top patterns on the shirt or suit.
- Finally, these are often best saved for more elevated situations, so take care when going more casual. Not saying you can’t do it, but the more casual you go, the bolder the look will be. Now, for Riley’s tips on the shirt.
“Get your sleeve length right- nothing worse than seeing French cuff shirts look like the top’s equivalent of harem pants! The cuff link is a personal touch to you, but it’s okay to say ‘refined, classy, elegant’ as much as it is to say you like dogs or cats.”
Now that you are armed with the knowledge of one of the primary staples of your shirt wardrobe, it is up to you to find the cufflinks to express yourself. Like anything in life, don’t be afraid to explore more. Wear them as formally or as informally as you want, and once you have found your look, you can relish in the knowledge that you have mastered the art of the French cuff shirt.
