The Manual Wind: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph

By Ian Schwam October 29, 2014

manual wind bell ross br x1 skeleton chronograph

The aviation inspired watch has been around since, well, the dawn of aviation. This category of watches are designed truly fueled by necessity; large numbers and hands in large cases for easy legibility while flying and monitoring a flight control panel. Back in 2005, Bell & Ross took the gauge to the wrist with the introduction of the BR series. This 46mm goliath, distinguishably square, with large numbers and hands was an instant hit. Reasonably priced at under $5,000, the BR caught on fast and became a staple weekend timepiece for collectors.

Now almost ten years later, the BR line has come a long way bearing new materials and complications. Their latest offering, the BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph, proves just that.

Made out of Titanium, ceramic, and rubber, the 45mm BR-X1 case has a modern yet rugged appearance; almost futuristic yet still keeping the BR theme. Matte ceramic, rubber, and brushed titanium bring out some of the best finishing Bell & Ross has offered. Add to that a sharp skeletonized dial of grey-tinted mineral glass revealing an exposed date wheel and gears and this piece becomes a standout. Beneath the skeleton dial is the Swiss made Bell & Ross modified chronograph movement. Flip the piece around and there is a small sapphire window giving a peak into a portion of the movement as well. As with most of the BR line, this piece is paired with a rubber strap and ceramic tang buckle staying true to their original functionality.

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When modeled after history, watch design certainly has staying power. The BR line from Bell & Ross has proven that over the last ten years. As technology has developed and watch interest has grown, Bell & Ross has stayed with the times and the BR-X1 is a perfect example of that. Limited to only 250 pieces and priced at a steep $19,500, don’t expect this BR to enter your collection as easily as the other BR’s.

See them all here for the only square sport timepiece any collector needs in their collection.

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The Manual Wind: Bell & Ross BR03-96 Big Date

Bell ross

Like building blocks, there can only be so many shapes of a watch case. Round, square, tonneau, rarely rectangular, and thankfully nothing triangular. The square timepiece, if proportioned correctly, can be very attractive on the wrist. Bringing the square to the forefront many years ago, Bell & Ross exploded on the scene with their BR01 model. The oversized 46mm case was perfect for the then ‘bigger is better’ watch mentality. Since then, that mentality has deflated some making way for the more practical and wearable BR03. Always hiding behind its larger counterpart, this 42mm square gets its turn. Bell & Ross has released a new complication in this case with some great looking dials; the Bell & Ross BR03-96 Big Date.

The 42mm case with automatic movement always had a date function in the other complications, but as the name says, its now larger. With a slightly exposed date wheel displaying this larger date at the 3’oclock, this piece takes on new dial proportions. The new dials offered are different from previous dials. Two variations include a steel and black dial in the base piece and the same dial but with gold accents in the Golden Heritage edition. The Golden Heritage is fit with a camel colored calf strap to bring out the gold accents, while a black strap fits the contrast well of the other.

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manual wind bell ross br123 gmt and

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The Manual Wind: The Chronograph Spirit

manual wind chronograph spirit

The watch industry has seen an influx of brands in the last few decades. Brands both resurrected from the depths of dormant watch history and conceived of passionate skilled students of the art. When marketing takes a backseat to passion and skill, truly transcendent timepieces emerge. That is of the case of Peter Speake-Marin. As if watchmaking was his destiny, Speake-Marin was schooled and trained, restoring and developing all before the age of thirty. Having designed and built high-end complications for the well known movement manufacturer Renaud & Papi (now owned by Audemars Piguet) his next step was to take his name from the bench to exhibition with the creation of his namesake brand; Speake-Marin. The Piccadilly was Speake-Marin's first release. Now, more than a decade later, this discernible case design is the cornerstone of the brand.

Having utilized the Piccadilly case once again, the first Speake-Marin Chronograph hits The Basel Watch Fair 2014. Taking the design cues of the Automatic Spirit Mark 2, Speake-Marin introduces the Spirit Seafire Chronograph. This Titanium case 42mm Chronograph has the fervor of English sophistication and sport. A matte dial in horizontal symmetry displays minute and hour chronograph counters, date, and a running seconds signified by the 'Topping Tool' insignia frequently used by Speake-Marin. All the hands, including the Speake-Marin spade-tipped hour hand, are filled with SuperLuminova for nighttime legibility. The Chronograph counters displayed with both arabic and roman numerals are a unique touch giving this chronograph an almost regulator type feel. Inside lies a caliber C99001-D automatic Chronograph movement with forty-eight hour power reserve. This single barrel chronograph is a great pairing for this piece giving this titanium case a durable and high performing movement allowing for true reliability and sport. Attach this piece to your wrist with a hand-made brown calf leather strap and tang buckle for a meeting of old English charm and industrial sport.