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150 years of Audemars Piguet: How AP changed watchmaking forever

Celebrating 150 years of Audemars Piguet's watchmaking and the technical marvels that defined luxury timepieces.

Audemars Piguet Mini Oak three colors
Audemars Piguet / Audemars Piguet

For a century and a half, Audemars Piguet has been a leader in watchmaking innovation, defying conventions while maintaining a relentless commitment to craftsmanship. Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, the brand quickly made its mark with its specialization in ultra-thin and complicated movements at a time when most watchmakers focused on simpler designs. AP’s pursuit of technical excellence led to industry firsts, including the first minute-repeating wristwatch in 1892 and the first skeletonized pocket watch in 1934 — feats that solidified the brand’s reputation as a leader in the market.

But Audemars Piguet’s true revolution came with the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972. Designed by Gérald Genta, this stainless steel luxury sports watch included several impressive features that rewrote the book on luxury watchmaking, including an octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and an integrated bracelet. Seemingly overnight, AP proved that elegance and durability could coexist seamlessly, creating a new category that competitors would spend decades trying to imitate.

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Beyond merely designing iconic timepieces, AP’s in-house manufacturing guarantees every component meets stringent standards, from handcrafted movements to intricate guilloché dials. The brand’s ‘Grande Complication’ watches — like the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie — continue to expand acoustic and mechanical boundaries. As Audemars Piguet celebrates 150 years, its legacy is about setting a high standard and redefining the possibilities of what horology can be and is.

Standout masterpieces across Audemars Piguet’s collections

Audemars Piguet’s catalog showcases artistry, blending singular, avant-garde design with technical mastery. The brand has released several standout masterpieces over the years that continue to make waves in the industry. The Royal Oak release remains iconic, with the Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202 and the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar packing an intricate movement into a sleek, wearable form.

The Millenary collection, featuring off-center dials and three-dimensional movements, demonstrates AP’s prowess in architectural watchmaking. The release is still revered for its singular take on horological design and serves as a testament to Audemars Piguet’s directive of redefining the boundaries by thinking outside the box to make timepieces that eventually become iconic in their own right. Pieces like the Millenary Minute Repeater reveal the brand’s command of acoustic engineering, producing chimes that are both precise and melodious.

For watch enthusiasts who live for the sheer mechanical spectacle of it all, the Code 11.59 line delivers dynamic designs with high complications, including the Tourbillon Openworked and the Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, which comes with 40 functions. Meanwhile, the Royal Oak Offshore — introduced in 1993 — transformed the Royal Oak into a rugged, statement piece beloved by athletes and watch collectors alike.

Each of these collections exemplifies Audemars Piguet’s versatility and a penchant for crafting stellar pieces of wearable art. Whether creating dress watches or sports models, the brand maintains a fine balance between innovation and tradition.

Notable anniversary releases that made history

Audemars Piguet has a tradition of marking milestones with extraordinary timepieces, and for the 125th anniversary in 2000, AP unveiled the ‘Tradition d’Excellence’ series, including the Tourbillon Chronograph No. 1, a limited-edition timepiece blending a tourbillon with a split-seconds chronograph — a wonder of micromechanical engineering.

For the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary in 2015, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, breaking records for ushering in an even slimmer version of one of the most complex mechanisms in horology. The 2019 Black Panther Royal Oak Concept demonstrated AP’s willingness to take risks, merging luxury watchmaking with pop culture in a way no other brand had previously dared. 

For the 150th anniversary, expectations are high for a release that honors Audemars Piguet’s past while pointing toward the future. Watch enthusiasts have expressed interest in a reimagined ‘Jumbo’ with a new movement, or a grand complication merging a minute repeater with a flying tourbillon. Or AP may decide on a collaboration with a renowned artist for an exclusive limited edition collection that merges architecture and kinetic art. Beyond new releases, Audemars Piguet may also launch global exhibitions that feature their extensive archives, highlighting prototypes and one-of-a-kind pieces never seen by the general public. Whatever the brand brings to the table, it’s destined to be as bold as the brand itself.

The future of Audemars Piguet: Where tradition meets tomorrow

As Audemars Piguet enters its next 150 years, one thing is certain: the brand will continue to push boundaries and move the industry forward. With its mantra of precision and perfection in the pursuit of excellence, there is no scenario where AP doesn’t continue to meet and exceed the expectations of its most ardent fans. Whether through groundbreaking materials, singular designs, or complications that take precision to higher heights, AP remains committed to its founding ethos — crafting the extraordinary. For collectors, this anniversary serves as a celebration of the past and a preview of its future.

Triston Brewer
Triston Brewer is a journalist, creative director, stylist, fashionisto, and jetsetting digital bon vivant. Brace yourself!
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