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All saunas need to be on the water

Ebb and Ember.
Mark Stock / The Manual

Scandinavian culture has taught us so many great lessons, from super clean design aesthetics to surviving the winter by way of a good sauna. Speaking of the latter, there’s a fantastic new floating sauna in Portland. It’s heavily influenced by winter lifestyles is places like Finland and Iceland is offers guests the chance to cold plunge in a river and steam on a moored sauna.

That one-two combo is a big draw. One minute, you can be jumping off the patio roof of the sauna into the chilly Columbia River and the next you can be thawing inside where it’s 170-ish degrees F. You get some serious blood circulation and a big exhale to boot.

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The location is deceptively convenient, set on a side channel of the river just off of Bridgeton Road. It’s nestled within a houseboat neighborhood and all you have to do is follow the signs to the wellness destination. Once there, Ebb & Ember doesn’t look like much more than a newly-built tiny house floating on the water. But there’s some Scandinavian efficiency at play.

There’s nothing overly special about Ebb & Ember on top of the prime location, afloat in the Columbia River. And that’s no bash, as the building is quaint and charming, with plenty of room inside (houses about 8 or so comfortably, with cedar benches) and stellar views of the river and mountains in the distance. Upstairs, there’s a rooftop set up with chairs for more elevated panoramas, as well as a ledge for bigger dips in the river.

Right now, the Columbia River is about 40 F, plenty cold for all those recovery benefits attached to a good cold plunge. The current is pretty swift but the sauna is set up with floating decks as well as multiple ladders for entry and exit. You won’t want to stray too far from the sauna as the chill is significant.

But to be able to pop up and walk ten paces into a convivial sauna is where Ebb & Ember takes the sauna blue ribbon. There have been some great ideas in this department (hot tub boats, for example), but this one, inspired by Finns who like to chase a dip in a frozen lake with a stay in a warming hut, is one of the best we’ve experienced. If you need both a pick-me-up and simmer-down this winter, this is just what the doctor ordered.

One can choose from single pass fees (private or social) or monthly memberships. We’d suggest the a social drop-in to begin with (set at a reasonable $49 for off-peak times and $59 for busier times) to see if it’s your cup of team. The fee affords 1 hour and 45 minute blocks, which is more than enough time to soak up the amenities (you’ll likely overheat before then).

Note that you can bring snacks and you should definitely bring a water bottle (non-metallic) to stay hydrated. It’s open rain or shine and the place is all the more comforting with the weather is lousy. Do be mindful that the sauna is set on an active marina, so watch out for boat traffic.

There are bathrooms and changing rooms on site and, when you’re done, we suggest popping over to Hayden Island and Pal’s or some of Vancouver’s best restaurants for a meal. If you’re really feeling inspired, plan a trip around sauna culture (and be sure to read our Iceland travel guide).

Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since… Read Full Bio
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