For guys looking for a sneaky-easy way to find their best look, consider the humble stubble beard. It may not seem like much — for some men, it basically looks like they forgot to shave — but the stubble beard is incredibly versatile, and it opens up a world of possibilities.
Barbers and stylists know this, which is why they often recommend the stubble beard to beard-hungry clients on a quest to look their best. There are some guidelines to follow and some tactics you need to know, though, so let’s review, courtesy of a top barber/stylist.
Consider the potential of going with a stubble beard
The next time you look in the mirror, think about your face shape. You’ve likely done this more times than you can count, but you’ve probably never done it while visualizing yourself with a stubble beard.
“The stubble beard looks great on all face shapes,” says David Connor, the curator and owner of the Antigravity Salon in New Orleans. “However, different face shapes require different detailing to get the best overall look.
“For example, if someone has a very round face, overall, the stubble beard would be best if it were outlined on the roundest parts of the face and neck to build a structured look. If someone [has] a square-shaped face, having a stubble beard will add a strong, masculine look.”
The possibilities continue for long, narrow faces as Conner shifts gears. “I would outline the stubble beard high on the cheeks, and as low as possible on the neck to create width,” he says. “Also, for narrow faces, outline the Adam’s Apple area and add a box-style stubble beard shape.”
The best haircuts to go with stubble beards
The potential of going with a stubble beard extends to whatever haircut you choose. Stylists like Connor can play a big role in this, especially given the degree to which they know the specific issues and pain points that come with trying to get that ultimate look.
“I think it’s possible for all haircuts to be able to wear a stubble beard.” Connor says, “But it is key that the stubble beard is blended into longer shapes or blended away from short shapes.
“For example, if someone were to have a shaved head or a bald fade, it would be important to blend from short to long, from the temple area down to the jaw area. This will create a smooth transition into the stubble beard.”
The same kind of thinking applies to guys with longer hair. “Allowing just a tad bit more fullness at the sideburn area will create a nice transition from the longer shapes into the shorter stubble beard,” Connor explains.
Don’t stumble into stubble beard mistakes
While the stubble beard/haircut equation does lean toward simplicity, there are some potential minefields to avoid. According to Connor, the biggest ones are about what he calls the transition zone between the stubble beard and the haircut, and shaping your stubble beard properly is a big factor as well.
“One of the biggest no-nos is leaving a line in the sideburn area when having a short haircut,” Connor says. “There should always be a blend or transition. Another big no-no is allowing the stubble to grow in without the intention of shaping it. Even when [you’re] going for a softer look, grooming the hair in the upper cheek area will be key to looking put together and intentional.”
Whatever you do, don’t just assume that your stubble beard will give you a great look without ongoing maintenance.
“Never let your stubble appear to be a lack of grooming, but more of a choice of style,” Connor says. “Don’t allow your facial stubble to connect to your chest hair or neck hair. These are big no’s.”
The grow-out potential, plus some pro tips
Thankfully, getting the right length for your stubble beard is fairly simple. Get a good set of quality clippers, but make sure you use the right attachments and settings when you’re doing your trims and ongoing maintenance.
“To achieve the [best] stubble length, use the clipper with the taper arm open for a shorter stubble,” Connor explains, “[Use] a 0.5-inch guard for a medium stubble, and a number one for a slightly longer stubble. Anything longer starts to look like a beard and gets a bit darker.
“I recommend outlining at the roundest parts of the cheeks and neck to add strength and structure. Some stubble looks great when they are not outlined, [but] it depends on face shape.”
Another benefit of going with a stubble beard is that it doesn’t have to be styled because it’s so short. That makes it an easy look to try and perfect in the summer or the fall, with the potential to grow it out as temperatures drop.
Products can help you realize your stubble beard potential
One of the pitfalls that comes with choosing a stubble beard is the assumption that you don’t need products. They’re not as essential, but they are important, and experimenting a little can improve your stubble look even more. Connor offers some specific recommendations in this area.
“For short hair lines like this, I recommend an all-around moisturizer for the skin, as the hair is too short to apply a beard balm or wax,” he explains. “Since the hair is short on the face with the stubble beard, I also recommend just using your face wash and follow up with a moisturizer of your choice.”
If you decide to grow it out
Some men use stubble beards as a bridge to a fuller look. This can be a great idea — provided you’re willing to follow up on the work you and your stylist have already done to build your beard foundation.
“If you’re new to growing out your stubble and [you] want to maintain a groomed look, make sure that you outline and groom the beard as you grow it out,” Connor says. “That way it doesn’t look like you’ve given up on yourself for a few days!”
