The craft beer world isn’t so much as sinking as adjusting. The economy and wellness patterns are proving serious obstacles but the industry has always had a fluidity about it. Now, while some breweries have been shuttered, the majority have tinkered with their approach, offering great non-alcoholic beers or opting for classic styles like lagers.
One of the biggest issues plaguing craft beer (and the drinks world in general) is the patriarchy. The Brewers Association fairly recently released a report suggesting that women makeup about 30% of the craft beer workforce, but just about three percent of craft beer ownership. That’s an improvement compared to a generation ago but by no means a reflection of the land at large, let alone the demographics interested in beer.
It’s simple: Some of the best beers in the industry are being brewed by women. They’re garnering awards, building loyal followings, and elevating what it means to be a craft beer. Many of these women are only furthering the movement by mentoring others interested in the field.
In the spirit of Women’s History Month and just plain good people making good beer, here are some of the industry’s most talented.
Whitney Burnside
Whitney Burnside is one of the most decorated modern women brewers in the craft circuit. She’s done award-winning spells at esteemed breweries from 10 Barrel to Laurelwood Brewing (RIP) to Pelican Brewing along the Oregon coast. She’s left a wake of great beers along the way.
Her latest project, launched in 2022 with her husband, is among her best. Grand Fir Brewing is the name and clean lagers and IPAs is the game. Burnside benefits from a culinary background and became Portland’s first female brewmaster at age 27 back in 2014. The Grand Fir space is one of the coolest in the crowded Rose City beer scene and the label is constantly collaborating, not to mention turning out their one line of deftly-made beers.
Leah Wong Ashburn
Oscar Wong founded Highland Brewing in Asheville three decades ago. These days, daughter Leah Wong Ashburn runs the show as president and CEO of the acclaimed outfit. The label is perhaps most famous for its Gaelic Amber Ale, an exceptionally balanced and very popular release.
But it’s about way more than beer for Ashburn Wong. Her community efforts have been nothing short of impressive, especially in the wake of the devastating Hurricane Helene. Highland became a safe haven and Ashburn spearheaded fundraising efforts that topped $13K for hospitality workers affected by way of special release otherwise known as Highland Haze. Good beer can do good things.
Highland is one of the most exciting east coast breweries and has really put Asheville on the map as a genuine food and drink destination. Ashburn Wong looks after a staff of about 100 at the brewery. As the label self-proclaims, it’s “immigrant founded, woman led.
Natalie Baldwin
A GABF award-winning brewer, Baldwin holds the reigns at Wayfinder. The Rose City brewery brought you the Cold IPA and specializes in excellent IPAs and lagers. Baldwin put in an impressive shift at Breakside Brewery before moving on in 2023.
A crafty brewer to say the least, Baldwin has always excelled at experimentation and fine tuning. Perhaps that’s why she was in research and development for so long for storied NW breweries. If you like west coast craft beer, you have to experience some of her work.
She’s inspired by European tradition but not in a dusty old way. She’s blends some of those deft, tried-and-true techniques with new ingredients. And her IPAs are some of the very best we have had the please of trying.
DeVonne Buckingham
The head brewer at Drake’s Brewing Co. in California, DeVonne Buckingham worked her way up the ladder. Early on, she led tours. Now, she’s making outstanding beers like the Best Coast IPA, Flyaway Pilsner, and some lovely barrel-aged options.
To standout in a craft-loving state like California is no easy task. Buckingham has done just that from her San Leandro brewing headquarters. And while we love the flagship options, the limited-release efforts are superb.
And that’s just to name a few. The industry, while still male-dominated, is evolving for the better. More women and marginalized members of society are not just entering the field, but earning top roles. Festivals like SheBrew celebrate the cause at hand and organizations like Pink Boots Society are offering support.
The movement continues to burst beyond boundaries, going international and also reverberating through other branches of the beverage industry tree. There continue to be more and more women distiller and winemakers, assuming roles and changing the game for the better. Find a new favorite, follow (and enjoy) their work, and support as best you can.
Craft beer is only as good as its people. And if those people are just dudes, that makes for a pretty one-dimensional scene.
