In the wine world, there are a lot of so-called rules. Often, when they’re broken, the results can be wildly intriguing. Just look at all of the wine pairing myths out there, just waiting to be challenged.
Now, when it comes to wine tasting in a lot of places on the map, the direction is almost one way. The direction tends to go from light to dark, or white to red (with pinks in between). But why?
The idea is to follow the weight of the wines from light to heavy. Generally, that equates to going from light to dark. Whites tend to be a little more on the light side and can be more delicate and the reds tend to be a bit heftier with higher alcohol content and often more structure and tannin. That might be the case when you’re going from, say, Sauvignon Blanc to Cabernet Sauvignon but might not work in another scenario, especially when you’re dealing in lighter reds, like Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir.
Plus, there are heavy whites too that can throw off the traditional wine flight. Chardonnay, depending on how its made, can be an example, as can Rhone varieties like Marsanne and Roussanne. Viognier can pack a wallop too.
So, what’s one to do?
Do as the French do
On a recent visit to Evening Land Vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills of Oregon’s esteemed Willamette Valley, a number of refreshing things occurred. For one, the winery was just beginning to offer an estate tour that winds down vineyard rows toward a gorgeous waterfall that ultimately pours into the Willamette River. Second, the flight of wines was flipped in reverse, at least in terms of what we’re traditionally accustomed to in a lot of the American wine landscape.
“Here at Evening Land we taste reds first because of the acidity in the white wines,” says Katie Owen, director of marketing at the Oregon label. We tend to harvest on the earlier side, so our wines can have quite high acidity. We find that the reds taste better – more like themselves, when served first. Also important to mention this is how they traditionally taste in Burgundy as well, which we have always drawn a lot of inspiration from.”
As we taste through the Pinot Noirs followed by the Chardonnays, it makes a lot of sense. You’re greeted with all that nuance of the medium-bodied red early, when your palate is operating on all cylinders. Then, you enter Chardonnay territory. These wines are delicate too, as is the case with so many outstanding Oregon Chardonnays, but they’re punchy too, with a juicy acidity that can almost sizzle.
Pinot Noir can be wildly fragrant as well and is all the better to approach on the early side when your senses are alert and sharp. Later on, some of those aromas like forest floor, mushroom, and spice might be trickier to differentiate. And, of course, practice is key to keep your palate in tune so try wines side by side when you can to keep it in shape.
Keeping your palate fresh
High-acid wines and drinks in general can wear out the palate. Too many samples, and you’re tastebuds essentially get fatigued. And while smaller pours and spitting are ways to keep your palate fairly fresh during longer tastings, there are other tricks too.
Rinsing your glass is at least a good way to keep parts of other wines from interfering with the next pour. In a pinch, you can always get a small false pour to use as a rinser and discard before getting your real pour. Some things can seemingly rejuvenate the palate, like biting into a crisp apple.
A base like bread or crackers can reset your palate as well. Just be sure that those nibbles are unsalted and unseasoned in general. They’ll act to neutralize your tastebuds and prepare them for the next wine.
It’s important to know when to call it quits as well. Or, at least to know when you’re palate is worn out. Whether or not you continue to taste, you have to at least recognize that you’re likely not going to be able to pick up on the details and subtleties of the wines as well at that point.
And spitting is a great way to limit intake but keep in mind that you’re still giving your palate a work out and it will eventually tire. While you may not be feeling a buzz, your palate might be getting exhausted. Naturally, mixing in plenty of food and water is always a good idea.
Next time you taste, consider going from less-acidic to more-acidic wines. That direction may allow you to appreciate things more and for a longer period of time. Generally, the person behind the counter will know the score but they should also be open to whatever order you think is best for assessing the wines.
Cooler climate wines tend to have higher acids. There are also varietals that just tend to offer more in that department, like Riesling, Albarino, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay from cool regions, and classic Italian reds like Barbera and Sangiovese. Champagne too can offer a lot of acid. At the same time, wines from warmer regions generally offer less in the terms of acid. Think California Merlot or Australian Shiraz.
Check out some of our related material, including features on everything from bold Italian wines to Willamette Valley wine.
