If you haven’t heard the news, sparkling wine is both in fashion and being made in exciting wine regions all over the world. Not that bubbly ever went out of style, but it seems to be in the best state arguably ever, with more players making excellent options with their own style and flair. With all due respect to Champagne, some of the best fizzy wines we’re encountering are from fellow cool-climate spots like the Willamette Valley in Oregon.
Exceptional sparkling wine has become the norm here. In fact, Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wines of 2024 included five Oregon sparklers. Thanks to a generous amount of classic sparkling wine grapes in the area like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier — not to mention others that producers are proving work extremely well — the Willamette Valley has become the epicenter of the domestic sparkling wine movement. And it’s so good it’s being celebrated internationally.
While it’s tough to go wrong approaching the region blind, as the quality is quite high across the board, there are some standout labels you should pay attention to. Read on for more.
ROCO Winery
The work of former Argyle winemaker and sparkling guru Rollin Soles, ROCO is a perennial powerhouse in the PNW sparkling realm. This is the nuanced stuff we so often associate with Champagne or Alsace, age-worthy and wonderfully complex. Sparkling fans are wise to opt for the Diamond tasting if visiting, as it includes five fizzy samples in the winery’s well-appointed tasting room. Look out for options like the Brut, which is refreshing, and do inquire about older vintages, some more than a decade in age. Trying an older bottle is a great way to gain some serious appreciation for sparkling wine.
Corollary Wines
Based in Amity and focusing solely on sparkling wine, Corollary is part of a new paradigm shift in Oregon wine country. Not doing still wines is an all-in endorsement of the sparkling style, and after a couple of tastes, we can see why. The label boasts one of the most eye-catching tasting rooms in all of west coast wine (a modern fire truck-red structure surrounded by stately vines) but if you can’t make it, you can get a taste of the place from afar with a nice bottle of sparkling Rose or a Blanc de Blancs showcasing specific spellbinding vineyards like Namaste or Winter’s Hill. Terroir is alive in well in sparkling wine, so get a couple of single-vineyard bottles and do a proper side-by-side tasting.
Statera Cellars
Statera is a label of Pet-Nat specialists in the Willamette Valley dealing primarily with Chardonnay. The place boasts an urban Portland tasting room and sources grapes from excellent sites throughout the Willamette Valley. The wines are as creative and playful as the label’s owners, whom you’re likely to meet if you pop in for a tasting. The Pet-Nat is lean, mean, and perfect for warm afternoons.
Domaine Willamette
The first sparkling only label in the area, Domaine Willamette is set in the historic Dundee Hills American Viticultural Area, where some of the oldest vines in Oregon reside. The location is remarkable, and the wines live up to the appealing surroundings. Adhering to traditional methods, the label has a trio of fine options, including a Brut, Brut Rosé, and Blanc de Blancs. Best, the wines are never released prematurely, which is all the better for sparkling, as it tends to enjoy patient treatment and extra time spent on the lees. If these wines are any indication, Willamette Valley sparkling is already classic.
CHO Wines
Wine has long been a game dominated by white male owners and winemakers, but things have been changing for the better in the name of diversity. CHO is part of a refreshing new guard, a tremendous Asian-owned label making dialed-in Blanc de Noirs and Pet-Nat. You can find something approachable and easy-going or sophisticated and worthy of lengthy musing. You’ll be happy either route you take.
Gran Moraine
Located in Yamhill, Gran Moraine is behind some truly dramatic wines that leave you wanting more. Increasingly, the label has put out high-end sparkling wines that have fetched sky-high scores. Whether you believe in the critical acclaim or not, the proof is in the pudding (or glass) and you won’t be disappointed. Bottles are not cheap, but that’s generally the case when you carry out the detailed sparkling wine process from start to finish without shortchanging any step along the way.
J.K. Carriere
While J.K. Carriere usually only has a sparkling or two in its lineup, it’s always worth hunting down. The Blanc de Noir is among the best this writer has tried, pouring a beautiful color and showcasing tons of depth. Simply put, you can taste the TLC put into the wine.
So, look out for these names the next time you’re at a bottle shop or perusing a restaurant wine list. The secret is certainly out about Oregon sparkling wine. Oh, and if you can visit, be sure to check out the relatively new sparkling wine trail in the Willamette Valley.
