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Far older than you think: A beginner’s guide to Mexican wine

Mexico has a great unsung wine scene

White wine glass tip
Rafael Barquero / Unsplash

Wine has been produced in Mexico since the 16th century. With Spanish rule came mandatory vineyard plantings, wine-loving missions, and a steady flow of vino.

Today, the country is responsible for some exciting up-and-coming wines. The Baja region, in particular, is home to more than 125 producers and is beginning to get some serious industry recognition. Beneath the fine agave spirits and beach-friendly lagers, there’s quality wine on Mexico’s Pacific coast.

"Baja Norte is scratching the surface of potential," said Erin Ungerman of New France Wine Company in the Twin Cities. She’s been looking into Mexican wines for a couple of years now and has seen firsthand the promise of the Baja region.

New France Wine Company launched its own portfolio of Mexican wines in 2018. Prior, Ungerman worked with California importer La Competencia Imports to bring many of her favorite south-of-the-border labels to Minnesota (and beyond as they presently service many U.S. markets).

The climate in Baja is grape friendly. Big temperature swings from day to night encourage ripening and the retention of acidity. Ungerman even refers to the Valle de Guadalupe, a booming stretch of land enjoying some great press right now, as the Napa of Baja.

But part of the Baja draw is its formative and experimental nature. Wine may have a five-century legacy in Mexico, but this area is just starting to see what it’s capable of. There’s not a lot in the way of formal appellations or wine rules in general as of yet, but that could be coming if the growth and quality continue.

“It is very much the wild, wild west,” she said. "The wines are wild, but represent place." Young imbibers increasingly want to experience terroir and can do so via these offerings. The relative curiosity of this wine region only adds to its intrigue. "For the wine adventurer, this is a perfect region to explore," she continued. It's also an easy weekend trek for millions of southern Californians.

Ungerman sums up the Baja wine scene as full of food-friendly options and unique blends from predominantly small, family-run estates. The wines tend to show their close proximity to the ocean with some pleasant salinity. "There are some great wines being made now, but with a little more time I think we will see some amazing things coming out of this region," she said.

Below, check out a handful of must-trys from Ungerman, plus some of our favorites.

LA Cetto Sparkling Brut
L.A. Cetto

L.A. Cetto Sparkling Brut

Bubbles are pretty rare in Mexico, but this one made from chardonnay suggests there’s plenty of potential.

L.A. Cetto Sparkling Brut
L.A. Cetto Sparkling Brut
Casa Magoni Chardonnay
Casa Magoni

Casa Magoni Chardonnay

An unexpected blend incorporating Vermentino, an Italian varietal only recently introduced to the Guadalupe Valley.

Casa Magoni Chardonnay
Casa Magoni Chardonnay
Santos Brujos Chardonnay
Santos Brujos

Santos Brujos Chardonnay

A more delicate take on the noble chardonnay grape, this wine is all about finesse and freshness.

Santos Brujos Chardonnay
Santos Brujos Chardonnay
Bodegas Henri Lurton Sauvignon Blanc
Henri Lurton

Bodegas Henri Lurton Sauvignon Blanc

A fresh and focused white that’s perfect with just about every warm-weather dish you can imagine.

Bodegas Henri Lurton Sauvignon Blanc
Bodegas Henri Lurton Sauvignon Blanc
Casa Magoni Red Blend bottle
Casa Magoni

Casa Magoni Red Blend

This wine is a blend of Sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon and holds on to its fruity nature thanks to a non-wood aging regimen.

Casa Magoni Red Blend
Casa Magoni Red Blend
Bodegas Henri Lurton Nebbiolo
Henri Lurton

Bodegas Henri Lurton Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is a famed northern Italian variety that happens to do quite well in the San Vicente Valley of the Baja region.

Bodegas Henri Lurton Nebbiolo
Bodegas Henri Lurton Nebbiolo
La Lomita Cabernet Sauvignon
La Lomita

La Lomita Cabernet Sauvignon

Made in from fruit grown in the Valle de Guadalupe, this wine has a lot of energy for a cabernet.

La Lomita Cabernet Sauvignon
La Lomita Cabernet Sauvignon
Mina Penelope Sauvignon Blan
Mina Penelope

Mina Penelope Sauvignon Blanc

A cool take on sauvignon blanc, this wine is pale straw in color, offers nice balance, and does great with oysters.

Mina Penelope Sauvignon Blanc
Mina Penelope Sauvignon Blanc
Casa Jipi Nebbiolo
Casa Jipi

Casa Jipi Nebbiolo

Full of pizazz, this Nebbiolo riff will have you rethinking the varietal (in a good way).

Casa Jipi Nebbiolo
Casa Jipi Nebbiolo
Casa Madero Red Blend
Casa Madero

Casa Madero Red Blend

Nice and wild, this wine shows plenty of berry and red fruit flavors, with solid structure.

Casa Madero Red Blend
Casa Madero Red Blend

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of wine is popular in Mexico?

The wine industry continues to grow in Mexico, thanks to a new generation or producers and retailers and sommeliers starting to take notice. More and more acres are being set aside for viticulture, with popular grape varieties including chardonnay, chenin blanc, dauvignon blanc, and Viognier.

In terms of reds, Bordeaux varietals like cabernet sauvignon and merlot do well in Mexico. Also grown is Grenache, Nebbiolo, and Tempranillo. As the newest band of producers continues to flex its creative muscles, look out for new varietals coming to the fore.

Ready to peruse the wine map further? Check out our guides to Sonoma wine country and dry farm wines. Be adventurous in your sipping and chat up your local sommelier or wine shop staff for recommendations.

Mark Stock

Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since. He spent years making, selling, and sipping Pinot Noir in the Dundee Hills before a full return to his journalistic roots in 2016.

He's helplessly tied to European soccer, casting for trout, and grunge rock.

In addition to The Manual, he writes for SevenFifty Daily, Sip Northwest, The Somm Journal, The Drake, Willamette Week, Travel Oregon, and more. He has a website and occasionally even updates it: markastock.com.

 

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