Skip to main content

Shop Class – George Bass

Some of our readers have asked how to wear a suit in warmer regions of the States. So we spoke to the man who knows Southern suiting better than most, Mister George Bass.

Since 1985 he has been dressing men in New Orleans and all around the country in the finest there is to offer. He travels to Italy twice a year and New York four times annually. He knows his suiting – that’s for sure. We got on the horn and talked tailoring and here is what he had to say:

How do you dress your Southern clients in the fall/winter seasons?

It’s 78 degrees in New Orleans and the high tomorrow is 65. That is a big swing. I live up on a lake and the low will be 34. There is a 15-degree difference sometimes. It’s all about weight and look.

Obviously we don’t want you to wear seersucker in the winter but there are fabrics that are year round weight. You can of course layer in the winter if it gets a little chilly.

8.5 -9 ounce weights are what we call year round weights.

What we do at our shop in the fall is 9 ounces with a quarter mill finish, which is when the cotton is lightly brushed (think flannel).

Image used with permission by copyright holder

What kind of weight would someone up north wear?

There has been a return to the classic heritage fabrics, so you are seeing 3-4 ply plain weave and full flannels. There are two types of weaves. There is a twill weave and a plain weave. Same goes for suits. You can have a 2×1 fabric. But heritage fabrics are 2×2 and 3×2 and these are heftier plain weave goods. I have a three ply fabric at the shop but it has some heft. It’s like a non wrinkle travel blazer by Satorio that we sell really well.

We private label Samuelson. 1200- 2000 range but Strong Suit is big for us too.

What’s exciting in the suiting world?

Things are staying slim and trim. Heritage is still big and I am very happy to see fewer cheap fabrics. Even lower price guys (J.Crew) are using better fabric. Chinese suits were using Chinese fabrics, which are terrible and now they are using Italian fabrics. (Note we do not carry Chinese suits).

I know you worked with many menswear brands which have sadly(?) since folded. Tell us about some of them.

Norman Hilton suits were the best Ivy League soft shoulder garments made in the country.

Southwick was made in Lawrence, Massachusetts and was really great. They sold the company and now it is owned by the same people who own Brooks Brothers and is not the same at all.

H. Oritsky was based out of Redding, Pennsylvania and they were great at making soft shoulder suits too.

Image used with permission by copyright holder

What happened when they all folded?

We went to Italy. You have Milanese brands like Zenga and Roman ones like Brioni and Isaia and Kiton from Naples that are wonderful. It’s all about soft shoulder construction. It was the perfect bridge for us. We were early sellers of these brands and now a lot of stores are getting there.

What is great about a soft shoulder?

It’s also called a natural shoulder. Basically, you don’t look like you have football pads. Even if there is a pad, it is very light. Samuelsohn has 16 shoulder pads. Their first looks like a piece of fabric it’s so small, the 16th one is huge.

Once you go soft shoulder it is hard to go back! It’s the old Ivy League look.

You speak about suits like a scientist.

Well, there is a whole new generation that is getting into dressing. Their dad may have gone to work in a Polo and Dockers so they don’t know about suiting and are excited to learn more about it.

Editors' Recommendations

Cator Sparks
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Cator Sparks was the Editor-in-Chief of The Manual from its launch in 2012 until 2018. Previously, Cator was covering…
Rolex quietly revealed a new Day-Date 40 in Everose gold
Rolex just added a new Day Date to their collection without any fanfare
Rolex Day Date Everose 40 Academy Awards

Amid the splendor and prestige of the 96th Academy Awards, hosted at the iconic Dolby Theater in Los Angeles, a new watch was discreetly added to the Rolex Day Date collection. The Oscars, renowned for their grandeur, never fail to deliver a spectacle of epic proportions, and this year was no different, with a lineup of films that captivated audiences worldwide (Oppenheimer, anyone?) as well as a slew of high-end watches.
A new Rolex Day Date just dropped...quietly

Hidden within the exclusive confines of the Rolex Greenroom, reserved for the privileged winners of Academy Awards, lies a solitary showcase set side just for Rolex watches. Tucked away at the far end of the spacious chamber, embedded within the rear wall, this display holds the only Rolex timepiece in the entire lounge.

Read more
Swatch, Tate partner for watch collection that literally puts art on your wrist
Swatch x Tate Gallery collaboration inspired by paintings
Swatch x Tate collaboration watches

Swatch, renowned for its quirky designs and commitment to self-expression, has joined forces with the prestigious Tate galleries to create an extraordinary collection of Swatch watches that blur the lines between art and utility. The Swatch x Tate Gallery Collection isn't simply a collaboration but a celebration of creativity, individuality, and the appeal of wearable art.

Each Swatch watch is dedicated to the artwork of its respective artist. From Turner's Scarlet Sunset to Bourgeois's Spirals, every watch tells a unique story. Whether you're drawn to the whimsical charm of Marc Chagall or the bold simplicity of Fernand Léger, there's a watch in this collection to suit every taste and personality. This partnership further cements Swatch's position as a brand that bridges the gap between art and simple timekeeping with bold designs and vibrant colors.
The Swatch x Tate Gallery Collection: Wearable art

Read more
78 pairs of Gucci sneakers just had their prices slashed
A man wearing the Ace tennis sneakers.

The spring and summer months are the perfect time to upgrade your sneaker collection. With fresh styles and lightweight materials, sneakers are the best shoes for the warmer months for everyday wear, traveling or simply hanging out at a bar. Sneakers are now more popular than ever with men wearing them in both casual and formal situations. Here is a definitive guide to wearing a suit with sneakers if you want to combine a luxury look with a fresh new pair of kicks.

Right now, you can shop more than 70 pairs of Gucci sneakers on sale at Gilt. You can get up to $275 dollars off casual and fashion sneakers from this coveted brand in a mix of colors, styles and materials. Click the button below to start browsing these designer sneakers before time runs out.

Read more